Method for setting a stone in a metal element

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a method for setting a girdle ( 9 ) in a piece of metal ( 1 ), said method comprising the following steps: at least one hole ( 2 ) is pierced in the piece of metal ( 1 ) for receiving the stone, a stone ( 5 ) is placed in each hole ( 2 ), a tool ( 6 ) is applied perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal and close to the periphery of each hole ( 2 ), the end of said tool ( 6 ) having a tip for pushing back a lip ( 8 ) of metal onto the girdle ( 9 ) of the stone, and forming at least one imprint comprising at least one light-reflecting

The present invention relates to a method for setting a stone in a metalpart.

In the jewelry and horological field, the setting of precious stones inmetal parts is well known.

In one conventional method, an operator applies a graver obliquely tothe surface of a piece of metal to deform it. This causes the metal todeform to produce a collar that covers the periphery of the stone andimmobilizes it in the metal element.

This method is satisfactory except for the fact that the deformation ofthe metal can cause burring, which detracts from the smoothness of theresulting piece of jewelry.

Another drawback with this method is that it can be used to set stonesonly in metals such as gold or silver, that is metals having a certainductility. If instead the method is applied to hard metals, such astitanium, it is found that the action of the graver acting obliquely tothe surface of the piece of metal does not produce a collar because themetal breaks and forms a chip.

Another drawback with the current setting method has to do with the factthat, in the case of pave settings, meaning many stones set side by sideover the surface of a piece of jewelry or a watch, the area of metalbounded by the stones appears dull and does not contribute to settingoff the stones.

It is therefore an object of the invention to provide a method forsetting stones in a piece of hard metal such as titanium.

It is another object of the invention to provide a method of settingthat displays the stones to advantage.

According to the invention, this method for setting at least one stonehaving a girdle in a piece of metal, said method comprising thefollowing steps:

at least one hole is pierced in the piece of metal for receiving thestone,

a stone is placed in each hole,

a tool is applied perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metaland close to the periphery of each hole, the end of said tool having atip for pushing back a lip of metal onto the girdle of the stone, andforming at least one indentation comprising at least onelight-reflecting facet.

The method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to setpieces in an extremely hard metal because of the perpendicular action ofa tool in deforming the metal and forming a lip. What is more, theindentation forming a lip has at least one facet, giving the settingaccording to the invention additional visual appeal.

In one possible version the tool is applied manually.

In another possible version the tool is applied mechanically.

The invention also relates to a tool for carrying out the method, havingat its end at least one surface ending in a tip.

In accordance with several shapes which the tool may take:

the tool has at its end a conical form ending in a tip;

the tool has at its end a tetrahedral form ending in a tip;

the tool has at its end several facets converging toward a tip;

the tool has a radius of 0.2 to 0.5 mm.

The invention also relates to the product such as a jewel or timekeepercomprising a piece of metal on which is placed at least one stone havinga girdle, said product being characterized in that it exhibits, aroundat least one stone, at least one indentation having a facet impressedinto the surface of the piece of metal, forming a lip that covers thegirdle of the stone.

Preferably the entire surface of the piece of metal bounded by two ormore stones is impressed with indentations.

In order that it may be understood clearly, the invention is describedwith reference to the accompanying drawing showing, by way ofnon-restrictive example, a possible way of carrying out the method ofthe invention.

FIGS. 1-3 show the different steps in carrying out this method,

FIG. 4 is a top view of a product produced by this method, and

FIGS. 5-8 show several possible embodiments of a tool for carrying outthe method according to the invention.

FIG. 1 shows, in section, a piece of metal 1 with a hole 2 as is wellknown in setting techniques. This hole 2 comprises, near the surface ofthe piece of metal 1, a conical seat 3 and a cylindrical part 3. As canbe seen, the conical seat 3 on which the stone is to rest is a veryshort distance, perhaps 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters, away from the surface ofthe piece of metal 1.

FIG. 2 shows the stone 5 placed in the hole 2 before setting hascommenced. FIG. 2 shows a tool 6 approaching in a directionperpendicular to the surface of the piece of metal 1. In FIG. 2, thetool 6 illustrated has a conical end terminating in a tip 12.

Turning to FIG. 3, the tool can be seen to be applied to the surface ofthe piece of metal 1. During this application of the tool, the materialis pressed out away from the tip of the tool 6 and the materialconstituting the piece of metal 1 is therefore displaced to form a lip 8over the girdle 9 of the stone 5 as it sits in the hole. This lip. 8therefore serves to immobilize the stone 5 in its hole.

The next step in the method is to use the tool 6 to form newindentations 11 in that surface of the piece of metal 1 which is boundedby the stones 5.

Referring to FIG. 4, this shows the multiple indentations 11 produced inthe inter-stone surfaces. In the illustrative embodiment depicted, theseindentations 11 have facets—four facets in this case. The indentations11 situated adjacent to the stones hold the stones in place, while thefunction of the other indentations 11 is to reflect the light.

FIGS. 5-8 show several embodiments of the tool. These embodiments,though non-restrictive, nonetheless all have the common feature that theend of the tool consists of a tip 12 at its end. This tip 12, appliedperpendicularly to the surface of the metal, displaces even the hardestmetal to form a lip 8.

FIG. 5 shows a tool with a pyramidal end.

FIG. 6 shows a tool with a tetrahedral end.

FIG. 7 shows a tool with a conical end.

FIG. 8 shows a tool whose end has four facets.

The process thus described has many advantages. It can be used to setstones in an extremely hard metal, such as titanium, because the toolused to deform the metal and create a lip over the girdle of the stoneacts perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal that is tohold the stones.

Moreover, the fact that the tool has an end which will give theindentation a smooth surface procures an additional effect in that theindentation that holds the stone in place also reflects the light.

Adding more indentations of this kind between the stones creates areflective area between the stones which displays their luminosity toadvantage. The dull area that occurs in pave settings created byconventional techniques disappears in the invention and is replaced by alight-reflecting area.

Finally, the action of the tool produces no burring, with the resultthat the jewel or timekeeper set in this manner will not snag or catch.

Another advantage of the method according to the invention is that itcan be used to set stones in an internal surface or in an unevensurface.

Lastly, the surface set by the method according to the invention has acontinuous appearance which causes the set stones to appear as ifaligned in rows and columns.

It goes without saying that the invention is not limited to theembodiment described above by way of example. On the contrary, itencompasses all embodiments of the invention.

For example, other shapes of tools may be envisaged. It is obvious ofcourse that all types of precious, semiprecious or synthetic stone canbe set by this method.

It will also be understood that, though the method is particularlysuitable for setting in hard metals such as titanium, it can also beused in metals such as gold, silver or steel.

1. A method for setting at least one stone having a girdle in a piece ofmetal, said method comprising: piercing at least one hole in the pieceof metal for receiving the stone, placing a stone in each hole, applyinga tool perpendicularly to a surface of the piece of metal and close to aperiphery of each hole, an end of said tool having a tip for pushingback a lip of metal onto the girdle of the stone, and forming at leastone indentation comprising at least one light-reflecting facet.
 2. Themethod as claimed in claim 1, wherein the tool is applied manually. 3.The method as claimed in claim 2, wherein the tool is appliedmechanically.
 4. A tool for carrying out the method as claimed in claims1, comprising at its end at least one convergent surface ending in atip.
 5. The tool as claimed in claim 4, wherein the tool has at the enda conical form ending in the tip.
 6. The tool as claimed in claim 4,wherein the tool has at the end a tetrahedral form ending in the tip. 7.The tool as claimed in claim 4, wherein the tool has at the end severalfacets converging toward the tip.
 8. The tool as claimed in claims 4,wherein the tip of the tool has a radius of 0.2 to 0.5 mm.
 9. A productsuch as a jewel or timekeeper comprising a piece of metal on which isplaced at least one stone having a girdle, the product comprising,around at least one stone, at least one indentation having a facetimpressed into a surface of the piece of metal, forming a lip thatcovers the girdle of the stone.
 10. The product as claimed in claim 9,wherein an entire surface of the piece of metal bounded by two or morestones is impressed with indentations.